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The beaten track |
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It was Paul Theroux, in his book Dark Star Safari, who said, “The Nile cruise passenger is someone in the process of becoming a licensed bore.” I don’t blame him. Almost everyone who comes here gets lured into the usual sightseeing trail, which is acceptable, except that Cairo has a lot more to it that one would miss out by surrounding oneself within the luxurious walls of a lavish hotel or a cruise ship. However, if there is one thing on this particular trail that you’ll be shot down for skipping, it’s the Great Pyramids of Giza.
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They are impressive; you can’t help but feel humble standing next to structures that have intrigued archaeologists, scientists and philosophers over the ages. The official records claim that these were burial chambers for Pharaohs Cheops, Chepron and Mycerinus, even though no mummies were ever found here. The non-official records have churned out interesting theories that even involve Hollywood’s favourite: extra-terrestrial beings. Whatever their origin or purpose, the pyramids are a reminder of how little mankind’s knowledge about the past is, let alone future.
There is no looking at any ruins in the world after seeing the pyramids; every single building starts to seem uncomfortably new. There are also people who come from various parts of the world to meditate inside. A narrow steep pathway leads to the burial chamber within the largest pyramid. The spiritual calm that pervades through is hard to deny.
Close to the pyramids is the Sphinx, the mythical statue that fascinates one and all. Although made of stone, it somehow seems to whisper through its eyes about how much it has seen with the passage of time, how many rulers have come and gone, and how many winds have touched it. Having history’s strongest proofs in front of you is both intimidating and exhilarating at once.
Most tourist spots have the usual traps: camel owners willing to pose for the camera lens for a certain amount of money, and small souvenir shops that look lovely with statuettes of the pharaohs but do little justice to the grandeur of the heritage they attempt to represent. If you strain your ears, you can almost hear the pharaohs voice their disapproval. |
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Ancient relics |
Speaking of pharaohs, the discovery of King Tutankhamen’s tomb in 1922, increased Egypt’s value by more than a few times. The remnants of the boy king are preserved in the Egyptian Museum, but the original location of the tomb is in Luxor. In many ways Luxor offers more to the history buff than any other place in the country. The ruins of Luxor Temple, Queen’s Temple, and most of all the Valley of the Kings are enough to get the most indifferent of us interested in ancient Egyptian mysteries, and there are plenty of those. Make sure you hire a guide though; to understand the numerous hieroglyphic carvings if nothing else.
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Luxor makes for a good weekend trip from Cairo. Even though it’s the same Nile that flows here, the vibe is generally more peaceful. There are no high-rise buildings, horse-carriages and bicycles abound, and if you happen to go outside the tourist season you’d be rewarded with virtually an Egyptian version of Pondicherry. |
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Turquoise retreat |
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A city named after the Greek conqueror Alexander the Great, Alexandria more than lives up to the magnificence of its name. Most of Egypt runs towards this coastal city during summer for some much-needed cool air; don’t be surprised when you come across about 20 miles of beach umbrellas. The blue Mediterranean Sea looks on unperturbed at the chaotic trams, crowded shisha cafés, black and yellow cabs, and hoards of tourists—Egyptian as well as foreigners—ambling along the roads in order to make it to the azure sea and take one more dip in waters somewhere close to where the beautiful Cleopatra bathed.
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Contemporary culture |
The street food in Egypt is worth delving into, and even more tempting when you walk down the banks of the Nile and see people sipping heavenly looking colourful drinks. The most popular (and delectable) of these is karkadeh (hibiscus juice served chilled or hot). But when in Egypt, do as the Egyptians do: smoke a shisha (flavoured tobacco smoked through traditional Egyptian water pipe). It’s different from the hookahs one can see mushrooming in Indian coffee shops, where youngsters come most often to ‘chill out on Planet Cool’; in Egypt it is part of the deeply engrained culture.
This is the last memory you should carry home with you from Cairo, as you say goodbye to an Egyptian night, which is just as sensuous as the Egyptian women who have belly dancing in their genes. Monuments alone never made a place. Do yourself a favour and get lost in the cities instead of gulping down a guidebook or going all the way just to sightsee. Life will never be quite the same again having seen the moon shine on the Egyptian sands. |
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FACT FILE |
Currency: Egyptian pounds
Best season to visit: October to March for Cairo and Luxor, and the summer months for Alexandria.
Shopping: For souvenir shopping in Cairo, Khan El Khalili Bazaar, close to the Citadel, is a good option. Ask for one-fourth of the price that the seller quotes, and eventually you’ll settle on half. For original papyrus, head to Papyrus Research Institute in Giza.
Eating & drinking: Don’t forget to try falafel, also known as tamia, and koshari while here. The local beer, called ‘Stella’, is a must as well considering this is the land of the world’s oldest beer guzzlers. Luxor Beer is good as well.
For more information: Log on to www.egypt.travel
YOUR RCI OPTIONS:
Pyramisa Hotel & Casino, Giza
El Wadi Plaza Hotel, Giza
Toll-free no. 1-800-338-7777
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