OCT-DEC 2006
 
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Amid the grand backdrop of lofty mountains, deep forests of oak, deodar and pine lure one into a world of unsurpassed beauty and infinite mystery. Here, one can almost taste the deep stillness and serenity of the ethereal ambience. Nainital, a 100-year-old hill-station in the Kumaon region of Uttaranchal provides an ineffable charm to all who come to savour the fragrance of nature and to rejuvenate themselves.

I was completely mesmerised by the sublime beauty of the deep grey-green Naini Lake and captivated by the ancient legend associated with its origins. Kumaoni people take great pride in saying that Naini Lake actually is one of the emerald green eyes of Sati, the wife of Lord Shiva and daughter of King Daksha. Some believe that the powerful Naina Devi temple is the place where the goddess’ eye (naina) actually fell.

According to Hindu mythology, Sati, daughter of King Daksha, married Lord Shiva against her father’s wishes. So as to insult Shiva, vain Daksha performed a sacred yajna or fire ceremony and invited all the gods, goddesses and sages, except his son-in-law. Sati could not take this slight upon her husband and attended the yajna against Shiva’s wishes and demanded an explanation from her father. Confronted by his daughter, Daksha became furious and humiliated her for marrying a good-for-nothing ascetic. Hurt by her father’s harsh words and insults, Sati threw herself into the sacrificial fire. Lord Shiva was completely devastated by the death of his wife and destroyed the yajna. Crazed with grief, he picked up the remains of Sati’s body and began the dance of destruction, Tandava, throughout the universe. The other gods tried to placate Shiva, but failed. Finally, Lord Vishnu used his celestial discus, the Sudarshan Chakra, to cut through the corpse of Sati, whose various body parts fell at several places in India. Where these body parts fell, they turned into stones and formed the sites of







Shaktipeeth. However, when Sati’s eyes fell in Nainital, it became a water body—Naini-Tal.

Lake Naini is always bustling with excited families as well as honeymooning couples rowing and spinning around in pedal boats. In the forest-draped hills around the lake, one can see a cluster of houses and hotels buzzing with activity. However, the magnetic appeal of nature still draws you in and all you want to do is find remote trails through the dense forests of oak and pine and savour the moments of complete stillness.

The region of Kumaon is full of lakes. About 23 km from Nainital at an altitude of 1370m is Sat Tal, seven interconnected lakes set against a backdrop of oaks, pines and the mighty Himalayas. Looking at them one is reminded of Westmoreland in England. The first lake to be seen as one approaches Sat Tal is Nal Damyanti. Next is Panna or Garude Lake. And as you move further down, you will come across a cluster of three lakes, Ram, Lakshman and Sita. The beauty of the lakes is heightened by the myths and stories associated with them. Because only six lakes are visible, locals believe that one lake dried up due to a curse. They are also fearful of another lake, which they believe is haunted. However, no one knows which of the blue-green bodies shelters the invisible ghost.
A jungle walk around Sat Tal Lake is something one should do before leaving this land. Cutting through the forests, with pine needles beneath your feet, avoiding the tangle of thorns, the present and endangered future of the forest comes alive before your eyes. This is truly nature in all its glory–untouched by modernisation.

Cradled by green mountains, orchards and dense jungles is a misty blue lake called Naukuchia Tal, the lake with nine corners. The lake is situated in the central Himalayan region, at 1,350 ft and is fed by an underwater spring, which keeps its waters high. It is believed that a single view of all nine corners of Naukuchia Tal can bestow moksha (liberation) upon the onlooker.  Apart from boating on the lake, one can walk around with nature as a companion.

Twenty-two km from Nainital, at an altitude of 1370m, is the beautiful lake, Bheem Tal. Named after the mighty Pandava Bheem, Bheem Tal is the largest lake in the district. The lake offers boating facilities and in its centre, there is an intriguing looking island with a restaurant that attracts many tourists all year long. Bheem Tal is also blessed with lovely dappled paths, ravines adorned with dog rose and wild raspberry, farm houses set among terraced fields and citrus trees laden with fruits.
Truly, the lake district of Kumaon, with its subtle yet pristine glory, has tempted lovers of beauty since time immemorial. Being there is indeed a photographer’s delight, an artist’s dream and a writer’s inspiration.

 
 
 
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